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　　The climbing history of K2【1】, Chogori, Mount Godwin-Austen, from the first try in 1902, until the Italian success in 1954.

　　【1】K2：在國外西方人習慣稱呼的K2峰，在國內則被習慣稱之為喬戈裏峰。為了符合國內稱謂習慣，本譯文對文中的稱謂“K2”全部譯為“喬戈裏峰”！

　　1856 - DISCOVERED AND NAMED

　　1856年―發現並被命

　　K2 was first described by the British colonel T.G. Montgomery in 1856 while doing a survey of the area. He named the peaks in the order he saw them, K1, K2, K3, etc. The K stands for Karakorum. Today K2 is the only major mountain that still uses its surveyors notation name as its most common name. K2 with its height of 8,611 meters is the second highest mountain in the world and is regarded as one of the hardest to climb.

　　喬戈裏峰首先是被英國陸軍上校T.G.蒙特哥摩利（T.G.Montgomery）在他1856年對喀喇昆侖地區進行的勘測中描述。他以K1、K2、K3等這樣的順序來給他所見到的山峰命名。字母K代表喀喇昆侖山脈【2】。今天，K2峰（即喬戈裏峰）是絕無僅有的、現在仍在使用以勘探員賦予的名字作為它最常用名的主要山峰。喬戈裏峰海拔8，611米，是世界第二高峰，並被認為是最難攀登的山峰之一。

　　【2】喀喇昆侖山脈：是一條走向與旁遮普・喜馬雅山（大喜馬拉雅山脈的一部分）相平行的大山脈。它延伸約400千米，通過印度和巴基斯坦北部。“喀喇昆侖”在土耳其語中意為“黑色碎石”。

　　1902 - THE FIRST TRY

　　1902年―首次嘗試

　　In 1902, a six-man group of European climbers, led by the Englishman Eckenstein, headed for K2. They chose the time before the monsoon.

 

　　They first crossed the Baltoro glacier, which with its length of 67 kilometres is the worlds third largest. The expedition reached the mountains foot and planned to make the attempt directly from the south over the Southeast Ridge, but when in place they came to the conclusion that the Northeast Ridge is probably much easier. Several attempts were made without success. They only reached 6,600 metres - this group had an unrealistic goal, and didnt realise their limits. At this time, early in the century, they had no idea of the difficulties in ascending such a high mountain.

 

 

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喬戈裏峰 組圖